Research Paper
Inayat
Author: Avreen Kaur Bhatia
Pearl Academy
Acknowledgement:
I wish to express my sincere gratitude to Mr. Arun Kumar Bhardwaj, Head of Product Design Department for providing me with an opportunity to do my research paper at PEARL ACADEMY.
I sincerely thank my course leader Ms. Khushboo Jogani and my faculty Ms. Ishita Jain and Ms. Aparna Mudi for providing me with their constant guidance and support during the module “Design Research Methodology”.
I also would like to thank the Dean of School of Fashion and School of Design, Antonio Maurizio Grioli for providing me the opportunity to embark on this project.
I would like to thank my classmates for being understanding and responsive during the process.
Abstract:
As per Indian culture, Polki jewelry was used by both men and women to add to their charisma and glamour. It is considered the most precious and invaluable form of diamond discovered by man, till date. It has been found that no other diamond has fascinated mankind’s imagination, as done by Polki. Polki is essentially uncut diamonds in their raw, pure form. It is made by placing uncut diamonds in gold jewelry using gold foils and lac. It does not undergo any chemical treatment whatsoever. It is expensive because the craftsmanship used in making it is extremely technical and time consuming. This is a wise speculation as it can be passed down the generations as an heirloom.
No matter how big the Polki diamonds pieces are, it can’t be resold. The jewelry in which it is set can never be melted. The only way it can be made again is by tearing away the “tikdas” and joining them again in different designs with kadis. In another way, many jewelers “remake” it by changing a few hangings or the chain, but that’s where the possibilities end. Jewelry made with real uncut diamond is not like any other diamond, which can be melted and be made into a completely new piece with a new design. An uncut diamond with one flat side and one tapered or pointed side. Although it can be installed on either side, it is often facing the contoured (non-flat) side.
Although the fluctuating price of gold (as it is made in gold) has never lost the sheen of it, it has definitely made the alternatives for uncut diamonds very popular. The desire of Indian women for wearing gems is rising day by day, a major push for the demand for imitation jewelry. Imitation jewelry offers the benefit of affordable accessories for the middle-class consumers. They mimic the appearance of finer pieces or original jewelry pieces while using less expensive material. Precious metals and gemstones that are quite valuable are used for fine jewelry which makes it expensive. Imitation jewelry replaces these materials with plated metals and fake gems.
Introduction
Indian adornments are special in its design and workmanship. India and jewelry, jewelry and Indian ladies - terms are connected innately. The craft of making lovely decorations, with delicacy and keenness, has been created over the course of verifiable times. Gems is made for practically every one of the pieces of the body and it is and it is additionally intended to coordinate with the clothing. To make adornments more alluring, it is topped by jewels and different sorts of diamonds. Indian gems move energy dissimilar to some other object of want. Each lady in India loves to wear essentially a little piece of gold adornments either through sparkling neckwear trimming, or hanging hoops or impeccably created bangles. Indeed, even men wear straightforward gold adornments like rings, arm bands and chains. In this manner, we can say that everybody has been moved by the excellence of gold gems and it has turned into a piece of our way of life and custom.
Polki is whole precious stones in their crude, unadulterated structure. It doesn't go through chemical treatment, in contrast to different precious stones. It doesn't have an exceptionally clear variety giving it a bright rural look. Since it's the most perfect type of jewels accessible, it's incredibly costly. The specialty of involving crude precious stones in adornments traces all the way back to feature of the way of life and customs of the Mughal realm. The Rajput, an upper station of the Indian subcontinent, later got and advocated the specialty of utilizing whole precious stones, particularly in their wedding gems. In the end, the utilization of whole jewels advanced toward Indian regal families. The custom is as yet perfectly healthy, with the province of Rajasthan being the greatest commercial center for handmade gems embellished with crude and whole precious stones. Previously, Polki were utilized in their normal, unfaceted structure. Yet, a considerable lot of those utilized in present day western gems making are laser-sliced to corresponding pieces, cleaned, and faceted softly. The outcome is more splendid and clearer polki with less considerations than the customary ones.
Polki adornments has an old-world appeal and goes very well with other bright stones. This is a good investment as Polki gems can be passed down the ages as a treasure.
There are three qualities of polki-Syndicate, Zimbabwe, and Khilwas. Syndicate is the highest quality polki. Zimbabwe Polki comes in second and refers to diamonds coming from Zimbabwe in Africa. The lowest quality Polki are known as khilwas.
Brands that promote it are- Tyaani, Tanishq, Raniwala 1881, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, etc.. Polki jewelry can be repurposed or spruced up by cutting the joints of the jewelry and rearranging them differently. But this might not be possible if the jewelry has Meena work, which can be spoilt if the jewelry is cut up and rejoined. Polki may not be worth much compared to cut diamonds, but they tend to hold quite some sentimental value, especially if a piece is passed on as an heirloom from one generation to the next. Therefore, it may not be worth to invest in polki diamond for profit, but if you are after a piece of jewelry that oozes old-world charm, then you might get value for your money.
BUYING BEHAVIOUR
consumers are people with different preferences. When the predominance of individuals in a specific group feels one way or on the other hand one more about an item, administration, substance, individual, place or thing, being a summed-up consumers mentality that is said could influence the promoting of that individual, item or element in positive or negative ways. Advertisers endeavor to impact purchaser perspectives, and understanding the overall mentality is the initial step to transforming it if necessary. Perspectives are "mental states utilized by people to structure the manner in which they see their current circumstance and guide the manner in which they answer.
Consumer behavior is the investigation of how individuals purchase, what they purchase, when they purchase and why they purchase. It endeavors to comprehend the purchaser choice cycles/purchaser dynamic interaction, both exclusively and in groups. It concentrates on attributes of individual buyers like socioeconomics, psychographics, and conduct factors trying to grasp individuals' needs. It likewise attempts to survey impacts on the purchaser from groups, for example, family, companions, reference gatherings, and society overall.
Research design
Polki has a wide market in the India. It is considered as a status symbol in the Indian society and is widely used and accepted by society. The bridal trousseau in India frequently includes uncut diamonds, which are quite popular. Sonam Kapoor is one example of a famous bride who used polki jewelry during her wedding festivities. She wore a polki set for her mehndi Priyanka Chopra wore polki jewelry for her pheras and haldi, Anushka Sharma and Neha Dhupia wore it for their respective wedding days, and so on. The Mughal Empire gave rise to the centuries-old practice of hand-crafting uncut diamonds into beautiful jewelry, a specialty of Bikaner in Rajasthan. These items are now regarded as essentials for any trousseau and heirloom-quality purchases for your own collection
Despite of having such a wide audience then also many people do not prefer buying it as they feel that it does not have any resale value and is not good for an investment purpose, which is not true. The gold content in Polki set is low because the gold is used just to make the frame (its filled with lac inside)- however some jewelers also put gold at the back which significantly increases the price. It's always important to ask questions such as “What is the gold grammage on the set” or “How much percentage of the cost is gold cost”- especially if you look at jewelry from an investment perspective. There are many jewelers who don’t buy the polki jewelry back as the cannot melt it because they are so delicate and the majority of them break easily, uncut diamonds are particularly difficult for jewelers to remove from any ready-made jewelry piece. Selling the jewelry to family or friends will maximize its resale value if it contains uncut diamonds.
As previously stated, uncut or rough diamonds are unpolished, unshaped stones. As a result, uncut diamonds cannot be certified for color or clarity. Polki diamonds are not certified or graded by well-known laboratories such as GIA, HRD, or IGI. A certificate essentially provides information on the color, clarity, and cut of the diamonds, but because uncut diamonds are not cut, they cannot be graded on color or clarity.
Literature review
Berad, N. R. (2015) in their review " In the report on the shopper's inclination towards marked jewelers over non marked or non-branded jewelers in Nasik city." recognized the elements that direct a client while buying Gems are configuration, cost, immaculateness, picture, assortment, show, administration, advancement and offers, family and companions. It was seen that 100 percent of the respondents knew about marked Gems.
According to Ms. Swati Phophalia- (Impact of Consumer Buying Behavior on Consumer Satisfaction) explains that the Light weight jewelers one of the quick selling items in metropolitan urban communities. The expanding request is advanced rapidly by the recent fad of wearing Jewelry as a customary style proclamation. Thus, the item life cycle period has seen a radical decrease.
Gomathy, C. & Devi, Y. (2015) in their paper, “A study on consumers’ awareness and perception about branded Jewelry” examined that maximum number of customers are aware of branded Jewelry. Tanishq (tata products) brand is the most preferred brand by the customers.
Chitradevi, T. (2017) analyzed the market, brand preferences and brand loyalty and how it correlates among the respondents. The review recognized that value, immaculateness and configuration scores greatest while buying adornments. The inclination of customer is persistently moved by the requirements, wants, decisions and style.
1.History and significance
The art of making jewelry with uncut diamonds dates back about 2500 years, when the Mughals first introduced it to India. From there, it spread to the Rajputs' courts and then to royal families all over the nation. Each of these royals customized the polki technique to suit their own preferences.
Today, polki is still regarded as being valuable, as seen by the fact that it is typically very expensive. In the modern era, the most expertly hand-done polki technique is used in Bikaner, Rajasthan. Gujarat is the other location, second only to Rajasthan in terms of its uncut diamonds.
Owning polki jewelry is seen as a noteworthy addition to an Indian woman's jewelry collection because it is one of the oldest types of traditional jewelry. Different cultures each have their own piece of polki jewelry. Rajputi brides, for example, favor stiff rani haar necklaces. Contemporary young brides favor statement earrings like Kashmiri jhumkas and kanser, as well as chokers piled with long haars or massive spherical necklaces.
Making the jewelry is a sophisticated and time-consuming process that takes a lot of talent, which drives up the cost of polkis comparatively. The sentimental value of polkis can be fairly high, especially if a piece is passed down from one generation to the next even though they may not be as valuable as cut diamonds. Overall, it might not be wise to buy in polki diamonds for financial gain, but if you're looking for jewelry that exudes old-world elegance, you might receive value for your money. These uncut diamonds, known as "polkis," are becoming more and more well-liked outside of India, where they originally came from. Clarity and carat weight are among the variables that sellers and purchasers take into consideration when deciding on the price of polki diamond. As more and more jewelry lovers in the west and other parts of the world learn about polki, these raw and uncut diamonds will become more valuable.
2.How long can it take to make one piece of polki jewelry?
Each piece takes days or even months to produce depending on how intricate the pattern is, so this craft requires a lot of expertise and attention. As the polkis must be cut and polished to the same size and shape, the takkar process takes one to two months every piece.
Gold foil , which contains elaborate motifs on the back, is used to secure the uncut diamonds. Therefore, polki is a timeless and traditional kind of Indian jewelry, making it a wise investment that frequently passed down as family heirlooms.
3.What makes polki jewelry so special?
Jewelry no longer only revolves around gold. Customers increasingly support polki as well in order to pass it down to future generations. Popular designs use traditional floral and animal patterns and are aesthetically pleasant. Every item of polki jewelry has an antique appeal because it is fashioned with uncut diamonds in their original shapes. Due of the significance of the color red in Indian culture, rubies play a significant role in polki jewelry as well. Although sapphires and emeralds are the next most popular gemstones for enhancing designs due to their availability. Rose-cut diamonds and pearls are also used by jewelers to produce all-white jewelry.
4.Quality
The highest-quality material is labelled "Syndicate," a term that, in the 1960s and 1970s, denoted De Beers-produced goods. Today, the phrase is used in the industry to refer to premium polki.
The material from the Zimbabwean mines in Africa makes up the next grade, which is simply referred to as "Zimbabwe." The lowest degree, the third, is known as "khilwas." These classifications are made to describe the material's essential characteristics so that customers can make more educated decisions.
Treatment is the second most crucial factor to take into account. Similar to how gemstones are handled, polki slices also undergo cosmetic enhancement. Typically, fillers are added to the slices to enhance their color and clarity. Usually, there are three fillings: 30%, 60%, and 80%. There is always Khilwas Polki.
5.What is Jadau?
Jadau is not a type of jewelry or stone like Kundan and Polki, despite the fact that this is a common misunderstanding. The term "Jadau" refers to the ancient practice of encircling a colorless stone, such as a polki, with gold. Being implanted is the literal translation of the word "Jad."
Therefore, the term "Jadau" refers to the art of placing gemstones in 24 carat gold, as well as the jewelry manufactured from it. Without using any adhesive, the stones in Jadau jewelry cling to the gold. Since polki stones complement the rough-edged nature of Jadau, they are frequently utilized in traditional Jadau jewelry designs. This is due to the fact that polki diamonds are uncut, not as clear, and not as well-kept as typical diamonds.
6.The modern-day polki
Polki is still one of the most sought-after types of jewelry today, and it has just recently become more widely available. Two factors that influence the discriminating consumer are design and shape. The appeal is that each piece is distinctively different from the others and, because to the way it is cut, has a very understated and delicate appearance, making it appealing to a much younger market.
Intricate chokers, tiered necklaces, and timeless earrings are all traditional Polki patterns that continue to be very popular in India. Indian brides are known for wearing Polkis when they enter the church. However, modern interpretations of Polki go far beyond just regal associations. Even bridal accessories are being updated with ingenious, useful changes like detachable and multipurpose components. Polki is being approached by designers with a contemporary perspective to make it more wearable outside of the holiday season. To add modern charm to these timeless pieces, enhanced designs combined with multi-colored enameling, polished natural diamonds, and precious jewels are used.
A beautiful thing is considered to bring joy forever. This is also true of uncut diamonds, which is only fitting. The stone has a not just aged well but has thrived through the centuries to retain its precious spot on every jewelry lover’s must-have list. And with good reason at that.
7.Care For Your Jewelry
Directly applying perfume on your Polki Jewelry may eventually cause damage. Because of the compounds in the scent and/or any settling moisture, there may be gradual discoloration. Store your uncut diamond jewelry at room temperature, dry, and away from moisture.
They are super prone to moisture and chances are if you keep them in velvet boxes provided by the jeweler, they may not avoid moisture well enough and lose shine over time. The best things to do would be to wrap these in either butter paper or cotton and put them in airtight containers so that they are in a cool, dry place without exposure to moisture.
8.Resale
Polki jewel, regardless of how large the pieces are, can't be sold back. The gems wherein it is set can't be softened. The main way it very well may be changed is by tearing away the "tikdas" and rejoining them in an alternate plan with kadis. However, once more, if the polki gems has meena work, the possibilities of meena turning sour are exceptionally high. Another way numerous gem dealers "redo" polki gems is by changing a couple of hangings or the chain, yet there's nothing else to it. Genuine Polki gems isn't similar to precious stone gems, which can be finished liquefied and be made into a totally new piece with a totally new plan.
Result
This research gave me an opportunity to have a face-to-face interaction with the jewelry brands who sell polki and the consumers who buy polki for themselves or for gifting purpose. It helped me to understand that what exactly is it all about, what are the brands and who are the consumers who are buying it and why are they even buying it despite knowing the fact that polki is comparatively expensive and it does not have a high resale value as compared to others.
According to the primary data, 67.8% of the costumers are not aware of the quality of polki they are buying. They generally visit the jewelry shop and buy after seeing the uniqueness of the design and the finishing of the product. Many of them buys polki just for showing off and wearing it in gatherings where they know people will be wearing expensive stuff. 40% of consumers buy polki as they feel that it is lightweight and is eye catching and which is in their budget. Some of them buy polki as they feel it is really fascinating and looks better than other diamonds as the uncut diamonds are bigger in size as compared to the polished diamond. Only 31.2% of consumers buy polki after comparing the price and checking the quality of the product. 53.8% of people purchase polki from fixed and trusted jewelry store.
According to a study, consumer purchasing roles were studied at various stages: Initiator: 64% of women say they have received polki as a gift once in their lives, with the majority of the time coming from family members.
Some of the Delhi based jewelers were interviewed, they say that polki should be bought from a trusted jeweler as it can be trusted as much as you trust your jeweler. What is vitally important is that the consumer should go to a reputed jeweler whom they trust for buying as well as for reselling because when the jeweler buy back polki stuff from customer they can’t melt it and extract the uncut diamonds from it because it can break into pieces. Therefore, they cannot check the purity of the product. Instead, they change the hangings or the stones (rubies, emeralds, sapphires) attached with it to give a new look. So that they can sell it to someone else.
Discussion
The current study makes an attempt to introduce thorough data and information on advertising methodologies of retail diamond setters in Delhi. It likewise targets creating information and data on the current directs of dissemination in Adornments industry, advertising techniques that is item methodologies, evaluating procedures, advancement systems and arrangement procedures took on by Gems retailers, their concerns and prospects. This concentrate additionally dissect the Strength, Shortcomings, Open doors and Dangers (SWOT) of retail Adornments in the review region.
After interviewing the people of the jewelry industry, my thinking about the subject got changed as there were studies about it which can be a part of secondary source but the truth came out to be different which was not mentioned by the people who have already done their research on uncut diamonds. People don’t feel like doing any type of research or they don’t explore the price, design, quality, brand name before buying fine jewelry.
My research is to understand the psychological behavior of people while buying it as in the present scenario all the brides consider polki for their big day, even working women in many cases prefers buying light weighted polki for daily use.
Conclusion:
The buying decision is encouraged by the family, friends and society to keep up with the tradition. This survey indicates that none of the women were influenced by their female friends, leading them to conclude that women had little effect over their female friends' jewelry purchases. Towards the end of the research, we got an insight on the psychology behind the buying prospects of Polki and why consumers purchase despite of having low resale value. We are also pertinent to mention that the intricate detail that’s has been deposited toward the craft and should be purchased in order to sustain the tradition. It’s not just a fashion statement we are purchasing but a lifelong investment.
Limitation:
Formulation of research aims and objectives - Research points and goals have been planned comprehensively. The exploration point could be limited to where accentuation on expanding mindfulness about sluggish design is the point of convergence of the review.
Scope of discussions - The scope and depth of my paper's arguments may be constrained in many ways in comparison to the works of more experienced researchers as this is my first research paper and I don't have much experience conducting research or producing academic papers of this magnitude. On the other hand, there weren't many research articles on my subject, thus there wasn't much guidance.
Sample size - For this research project, gathering a larger sample was not possible due to a time constraint for the timely submission of the assignment, which includes potential drawbacks like a small sample size.
Since it was a time-based assignment, the sample size was limited; although having a small sample size has benefits and drawbacks, a bigger sample size was not feasible.
Measure used to collect data - Following the data collection, I came to the conclusion that the survey and the interview could have used some more precise questions that, in retrospect, might have given the topic at hand greater specificity.
Limitation as a researcher:
Time constraints- Time constraints prevented the collection of primary data as the report was meant to be finished in a month.
Access- Since this research paper talked about uncut diamonds, live meetings and a visit to the jewelry brand customer facing facade were both vital to have a superior comprehension of the brand. Geological constraints, for example, the way that specific brands were spread across numerous areas, made it important to lead an intuitive phone interview since visiting the retailer so as to finish an exploration paper was not practical.
Longitudinal effects- time constraints made it difficult to complete the primary data
Bias- Social and different sorts of inclination We as a whole have predispositions, regardless of whether we know about them. Although individuals, spots, or things referenced in the exploration report have all gotten the acknowledgment they merit, this study values perspectives that go in a clever way
Keywords: Polki, Indian jewelry, Indian craftmanship, Design, Motifs, History, Significance of art, Traditional, Techniques, Manufacturing, Jadua, Shining, Polki is lightweight, good finish, buying behavior, Origin and Evolution of polki, Preserving the art of making.
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